Discover what it takes to manage a pub in London today from six inspiring landladies
London: In her memoir, “The Last Landlady,” Laura Thompson shares the story of her grandmother, Violet, who was the first woman in England to hold a publican’s license. Violet was a remarkable landlady, known for her charm and ability to create a welcoming atmosphere.
Growing up in a pub, Violet was a strong matriarch who saw pubs as more than just a job; they were her passion. Fast forward to 2024, and the image of landladies has changed. Today, they’re more likely to be found in wellies than high heels, juggling paintbrushes instead of fashion magazines.
Unfortunately, the pub scene is facing tough times. In the first quarter of 2024, 80 pubs closed each month in England and Wales, a significant increase from the previous year. London has seen the highest number of closures, with rising costs and the aftermath of COVID-19 taking their toll.
I caught up with six amazing landladies in London to learn about their journeys, what keeps them motivated, and how they’re working to keep the pub culture alive.
First up is Natasha Purdom from The North Star in Hampstead. She’s had quite the colorful career, starting at The Flower Pot in Bedford. Natasha admires her former landlady, Kathy, who always dressed to impress and engaged with customers. Now, Natasha runs her own pub, where every day is different and filled with interesting conversations.
She’s had her share of wild encounters, including a run-in with a famous actor who called her a “bitch of a landlady.” Natasha takes pride in her no-nonsense approach and prioritizes the safety of her staff, especially women. She believes in creating a supportive environment for mothers working in pubs.
Next is Ali Ross from The Coach & Horses in Soho. Her love for hospitality sparked at a young age when she was fascinated by the behind-the-scenes action in a restaurant. After taking over the pub in 2019, she faced challenges but has successfully revitalized it, earning accolades along the way.
Ali emphasizes the importance of confidence and competence in her role. She wants to break the stereotype that only men can run pubs and hopes to inspire future generations to see landlady roles as accessible to everyone.
Pauline Forster, who runs The George Tavern in Shadwell, took over the pub 21 years ago with no intention of running it as a business. She transformed it into a vibrant community space, showcasing her creative talents. Pauline’s hands-on approach has earned her respect from locals, and she continues to innovate to keep the pub relevant.
Megha Khanna, who runs The Gladstone Arms in Borough, never imagined she’d be a landlady. After moving to the UK, she and her brother took over a pub on the brink of closure. They’ve since revitalized it with live music and a unique food menu, focusing on creating a welcoming atmosphere for all.
Esther Redfern-Ghaleb, currently on maternity leave from the Compton Arms in Islington, has worked her way up in the pub industry. She’s passionate about supporting other women in hospitality and has built a strong team. Esther’s love for pubs shines through as she reflects on the community aspect that makes them special.
Lastly, Lucy Do from The Dodo Micropub in Ealing is breaking the mold as a landlady. With no prior experience in hospitality, she opened her pub in 2017 and has created a unique community hub. Lucy faces challenges, including sexism and racism, but she’s determined to represent diversity in the industry and inspire others.
These six landladies are not just running pubs; they’re shaping the future of hospitality in London. Their stories highlight the resilience and creativity needed to thrive in a challenging environment, proving that pubs can still be vibrant community spaces.