London’s Historic Pie and Mash Shops: A Culinary Treasure

Explore the rich history and enduring charm of London’s beloved pie and mash shops

London’s Historic Pie and Mash Shops: A Culinary Treasure
London’s Historic Pie and Mash Shops: A Culinary Treasure

London: When you think of British food, pie and mash shops are a big deal. These places, once called “eel and pie houses,” have a special spot in our hearts.

Richard Holden, an MP, is on a mission to get pie and mash recognized as a traditional specialty. He believes it’s the original fast food, and honestly, he’s not wrong. Back in the Victorian era, there were around 600 pie hawkers selling meat pies with all sorts of sauces. But as meat prices went up, some of these vendors started using lower-quality meat and filling pies with oats. It was cheap, but not exactly the best quality.

Eventually, the East End shops figured out they could hire these hawkers to serve better pies in sit-down restaurants. That’s how we got the classic pie, mash, and liquor combo we know today, along with jellied eels on the side.

Now, there’s a bit of a debate about which pie shop has been around the longest. Henry Blanchard opened in 1844, but others like Arments and M Manze have also been serving up pies for over a century. Sadly, the number of these shops has dwindled from hundreds to just 34 in London, mostly in the East End.

With housing and development issues, many traditional eateries are struggling. It’s a shame because these shops are part of our history and deserve to be celebrated. You can still grab a hearty meal for about £12, which is a steal!

One of the classic spots, Manze’s in Deptford, is closing soon after over 110 years of service. If you want to experience this piece of history, you’ve got to hurry. They’re known for their flaky pastry and delicious mash.

Then there’s Arments, serving the community for nearly 115 years. They take their pies seriously, using different pastry recipes to get that perfect texture.

Kelly’s has been around since 1915, and it’s a family affair. Each of Robert Samuel Kelly’s kids opened their own pie shops, keeping the tradition alive.

F Cooke’s has been a staple for nearly 40 years in Hoxton, and they’re known for their delicious pies and great value.

Maureen’s is another gem, offering freshly made pies and even stewed eels. They’ve been doing this for over 60 years!

M Manze has a rich history too, with ties to the Cooke family. They’ve been serving pies since the early 1900s and are still going strong.

Lastly, Cockney’s in Notting Hill is a family-run spot that’s been around for 37 years. They serve up a massive scoop of creamy mash with their pies, making it a great deal in west London.

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Mangesh Wakchaure is a veteran writer working at London Lens, focusing on foreign news coverage on a range of topics.