Josh Barrie Explores De Santis: Mayfair’s Struggle with 5pm Aperitivo

In Mayfair, De Santis offers a taste of Milan, but locals aren’t quite ready for the 5pm aperitivo culture

Josh Barrie Explores De Santis: Mayfair’s Struggle with 5pm Aperitivo
Josh Barrie Explores De Santis: Mayfair’s Struggle with 5pm Aperitivo

London: So, picture this. You stroll into a church crypt in Mayfair and drop £11 on a glass of blanc de noir. Then, you shell out £12.50 for a sandwich. It’s a bit wild, right? But hey, it’s St Mark’s Church, built back in the 1830s, and it’s got its charm. Plus, De Santis is behind the counter, known for its panini shops in Milan since the Sixties. Now, they’ve set up shop here.

De Santis is a gem in Milan. The original spot is this cozy little place with a soothing green awning. Inside, you’ve got celebrity photos on the walls, stained glass lamps, and dark wooden benches. It’s in the Magenta district, where the chic crowd hangs out. Suddenly, Mayfair feels a bit more relatable.

But here’s the kicker: bringing that Milanese vibe to London is tough. Sandwiches have turned into Instagram stars rather than actual food. And let’s be real, Londoners don’t quite get the whole 5pm Campari thing. If the world is warming up, maybe we should embrace the idea of nibbling olives and sipping Americanos instead of just downing pints and grabbing kebabs.

There’s definitely space for both cultures in London, right? I’d like to think so. But at De Santis, it feels like Milan is being served up in a Victorian church crypt, far from the usual pub scene. No lagers or beers here; the cheapest drink is that sparkling wine at £11. In Milan, you’d find white wines starting at €7.50 and cocktails for €8.

Honestly, I’m struggling to wrap my head around De Santis in London. It looks great, no doubt, and Mayfair loves its sparkling wines and fancy cheeses. The negronis are solid, and the panini are packed with quality ingredients. But can I really fall in love with this place? I don’t think so. Milan and Mayfair are just different worlds. I’d love to sit on a wooden bench, sipping Aperol, but it feels like London isn’t quite there yet. Sure, it’s a city of many flavors, but it’s still not an aperitivo town.

Mercato Metropolitano Mayfair, St. Mark’s Church, North Audley Street, W1K 6ZA, paninidesantis.it

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Mangesh Wakchaure is a veteran writer working at London Lens, focusing on foreign news coverage on a range of topics.